and South Dalmatia sailing holiday
from the USA
Croatia 1-13 July 2001
My wife and I chartered a Sun
Odyssey 34.2 sloop from Sunsail Sailing Vacations
in Rogoznica for two weeks. Our itinerary took us
from Marina Frapa, Rogoznica, north to Kakan
in the Kornati Islands, then back south to Venisce
and Trogir, and on to Vinogradisce, Jerolim, and
Palmizana in the Pakleni Otoci. We made side trips
to Komiza and Scedro before returning to Rogoznica.
The weather treated us well.
Winds were in the 5-15 knot range and changed direction
almost daily. We abandoned our sail plan early on
and let the wind determine where we would go next.
We did have one mild blow that kept us in port one
The Dalmatian coast is
a delightful place for naturists. Although there
are fairly clear distinctions between textile beaches
and naturist ones, the boundaries are casual, and
those of us who feel encumbered by clothes can find
congenial places to go just about anywhere on the
coast. For sailors, it is even better: just about
every anchorage we visited was clothing optional,
leaving everyone free to wear as much or as little
as sunlight, temperature, and mood dictated. In
more densely populated marinas, such as Trogir and
Palmizana, with boats moored side by side, people
tended to keep their bathing suits on; but, in Palmizana,
a ten minute walk leads to the outer beaches of
Vinogradisce where naturism rules.
Vinogradisce turned out
to be the geographical center of our sailing. It
is a lovely harbor where one can anchor in 2-12
meters on a sand bottom, with fine restaurants on
a hill overlooking the sea. The harbor is formed
by two headlands forming a U reaching out to the
SSE. Although the beach on the inner part of the
harbor, the base of the U, is a textile beach, the
beaches to seaward on either side are naturist and
designated as FKK on maps of the area. This anchorage
is becoming increasingly popular and can get crowded.
It is best to arrive mid-afternoon before it fills
up, or to anchor in one of the three inlets to the
west (Uvala Stari Stani, Uvala Tarsce, Luka Soline).
Jerolim, the easternmost
island in the Pakleni Islands, turned out
to be one of our favorite places to spend an afternoon.
The entire island is designated as a naturist area,
and can be reached by ferry from Hvar, less than
a mile away to the north. Uvala Kardovan (note from
the editor: uvala is Croatian word for cove),
the bay facing SSE, affords daytime anchorage in
7-16 meters. There is a beach concession providing
chairs and light refreshments. Uvala Stipanska,
a south-facing bay on Otok Marinkovac, just to the
West of Jerolim, is also popular among naturists
ferrying over from Hvar, and offers a good daytime
From Vinogradisce, it is but
20 miles to Komiza, a lovely port on the
west coast of Otok Vis (note from the editor:
otok is Croatian word for island). Here one
can tie up to the quay or anchor in the sheltered
harbor. The village has all the amenities one could
ask for, and fewer tourists than places closer to
the mainland. The naturist beach has only recently
been designated as such and has not yet begun to
attract large numbers of people. There were perhaps
6 or 8 people on the beach the Sunday afternoon
we were there. Approaching Komiza from the SW, one
sees the village in the NE corner of the bay. The
naturist beach is roughly 1.5 miles to the south.
The best landmark
is what appears to be a monastery, a large building
complex surrounded by tall trees (perhaps cypress
or Lombardy poplars) set into the hillside to the
south of the village. A bit further south, along
the coast, one sees a cleft in the hillside overlooking
an inlet with more of the distinctive tall trees
strung out close to the water. This is the naturist
beach. In the photograph, the monastery is on the
left (north) just below the declivity in the hills
above and the beach on the right (south). We anchored
on sand in 4 meters.
We made another pleasant overnight
trip from Vinogradisce to Otok Scedro and
anchored in Uvala Lovisce, about 20 miles ESE from
Jerolim. The beaches were deserted when we were
there, probably because it was an overcast day.
After we returned the boat to
Sunsail, we drove to Cavtat, a picturesque
seaside town 5.5 miles SE of Dubrovnik. We
stayed at the Hotel Croatia, which has its own naturist
sunning places carved into the hillside leading
down to the sea. The restaurants in Cavtat are superb,
the views spectacular, and there are several naturist
beaches in the vicinity, notably Lokrum, Mlini,
and Supetar. We stopped briefly at Mlini and Lokrum
on a water taxi en route to Dubrovnik but did not
explore, although Lokrum looked particularly attractive.
We spent the afternoon of a gray and windy day on
Supetar, and had the island pretty much to ourselves;
only two other groups ventured across the choppy
water. There is a bar/restaurant on the island that
occasionally hires a band for evening frolics.
We have already booked a boat
for next summer, just because we could not think
of any place in the world that offers more delights
to seafaring naturists.
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