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Kornati nat. park
Marina Frapa
Marina Milna
ACI-yacht club

Accommodation in Croatia

Dalmatia naturist guide (part of Croatia Naturally web site)

Sailing in Dalmatia
by Michael from the USA

Summer 2000

My wife and I chartered a Benetteau Oceanis 331 sloop from Sunsail in Rogoznica for a week.

We sailed north to the Kornati for the first part of our trip, stopping at Kakan and Lavsa. Both harbors have moorings. In Kakan, they are marked with buoys; in Lavsa, they are not buoyed, but they are easy enough to find when you know that they are there, and it is also easy to pass a line through the chains connecting the concrete blocks in 3-4 meters of water. It is best to arrive before 4 in the afternoon to be sure of finding a mooring. We did not see any naturist beaches in the vicinity of the harbors, and, in fact, did not go ashore. Here, as in most of the harbors we visited, we found the people on the boats around us following a clothing optional policy: some remained clothed, others enjoyed full or partial nudity. The atmosphere was relaxed and casual, very much to our liking.

Leaving Lavsa on Tuesday, 4 July, we turned south and headed for Primosten. The southerly winds were brisk, 15-20 knots. We had a fine sail on a starboard tack down to the end of the Kornati, with the sails reefed but still doing well beyond hull speed. Then we had to motor when a course change took us directly into the wind. A Sirocco began to blow in early afternoon: rain squalls and heavy hot winds full of fine reddish brown sand from the Sahara. We arrived at Primosten at about 5, only to find the harbor full and the nearby anchorages too exposed to the prevailing wind for my liking. It took another hour and a half to get to Rogoznica and a snug berth at the Marina Frapa. The harbor at Rogoznica is one of the finest I have seen in 40 years of sailing throughout the Western Hemisphere, offering superb protection and delightful amenities.

The next day, we continued south toward the Paklina archipelago south of Hvar. The wind had backed to the North East and abated to 10-15 knots. Blue skies, lots of sun, wind abaft the beam. We ran on main and genoa, set the auto pilot, shucked our clothes, and lolled about all greasy with suntan oil. Glorious. We anchored in Vinogradisce harbor in 5 meters of water, swam about a bit without feeling the need for bathing suits, dined in the cockpit dressed in skin and smiles, surrounded by boats full of happy and gracious people.

We spend the next morning motoring around the archipelago, checking out the beaches at Stipanska and Jerolim, and anchoring for lunch in a beautiful harbor in a cove west of Stipanska, on the opposite side of the island from Hvar. Once again, the clothing optional atmosphere allowed everyone to wear as much or as little as desired.

That evening, we sailed north to Milna, on the island of Brac, found a nice berth and a courteous reception in the ACI marina, and had a lovely evening dining and dancing ashore.

We returned the boat to Rogoznica the next day, having to motor into light to medium northerly winds. Gala dinner at the Marina Frapa.

On our way by car to the Split airport the next afternoon, we stopped for lunch at the little harbor of Vinisce and found it to be a large and well protected anchorage, not at all developed, with only two boats in it.

This was our first trip to Croatia. It was far too short. Next summer we'll be back and stay much longer. The Dalmatian coast provides the best sailing in the Mediterranean I have seen and the most friendly environment for naturists that I can imagine. Unlike the French Riviera and many of the Caribbean islands, it is inexpensive: definitely not suffering from over development, environmentally clean, but still provides elegant accommodations for those who prefer them.

A note for other Americans addicted, as I am, to ice. The word for ice in the local tongue sounds like the English word, led. Cafes will give you small quantities for free. I am still trying to cultivate a taste for scotch not on the rocks.

Thanks Michael for this report.


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