from the USA
My wife and I chartered a Benetteau Oceanis 331
sloop from Sunsail in Rogoznica for a week.
We sailed north to the Kornati for the first
part of our trip, stopping at Kakan and Lavsa. Both
harbors have moorings. In Kakan, they are marked
with buoys; in Lavsa, they are not buoyed, but they
are easy enough to find when you know that they
are there, and it is also easy to pass a line through
the chains connecting the concrete blocks in 3-4
meters of water. It is best to arrive before 4 in
the afternoon to be sure of finding a mooring. We
did not see any naturist beaches in the vicinity
of the harbors, and, in fact, did not go ashore.
Here, as in most of the harbors we visited, we found
the people on the boats around us following a clothing
optional policy: some remained clothed, others enjoyed
full or partial nudity. The atmosphere was relaxed
and casual, very much to our liking.
Leaving Lavsa on Tuesday, 4 July, we turned south
and headed for Primosten. The southerly winds
were brisk, 15-20 knots. We had a fine sail on a
starboard tack down to the end of the Kornati, with
the sails reefed but still doing well beyond hull
speed. Then we had to motor when a course change
took us directly into the wind. A Sirocco began
to blow in early afternoon: rain squalls and heavy
hot winds full of fine reddish brown sand from the
Sahara. We arrived at Primosten at about 5, only
to find the harbor full and the nearby anchorages
too exposed to the prevailing wind for my liking.
It took another hour and a half to get to Rogoznica
and a snug berth at the Marina Frapa. The
harbor at Rogoznica is one of the finest I have
seen in 40 years of sailing throughout the Western
Hemisphere, offering superb protection and delightful
The next day, we continued south toward the Paklina
archipelago south of Hvar. The wind had backed
to the North East and abated to 10-15 knots. Blue
skies, lots of sun, wind abaft the beam. We ran
on main and genoa, set the auto pilot, shucked our
clothes, and lolled about all greasy with suntan
oil. Glorious. We anchored in Vinogradisce harbor
in 5 meters of water, swam about a bit without feeling
the need for bathing suits, dined in the cockpit
dressed in skin and smiles, surrounded by boats
full of happy and gracious people.
We spend the next morning motoring around the archipelago,
checking out the beaches at Stipanska and Jerolim,
and anchoring for lunch in a beautiful harbor in
a cove west of Stipanska, on the opposite side of
the island from Hvar. Once again, the clothing optional
atmosphere allowed everyone to wear as much or as
little as desired.
That evening, we sailed north to Milna, on the island
of Brac, found a nice berth and a courteous
reception in the ACI marina, and had a lovely evening
dining and dancing ashore.
We returned the boat to Rogoznica the next day,
having to motor into light to medium northerly winds.
Gala dinner at the Marina Frapa.
On our way by car to the Split airport the
next afternoon, we stopped for lunch at the little
harbor of Vinisce and found it to be a large
and well protected anchorage, not at all developed,
with only two boats in it.
This was our first trip to Croatia. It was far too
short. Next summer we'll be back and stay much longer.
The Dalmatian coast provides the best sailing in
the Mediterranean I have seen and the most friendly
environment for naturists that I can imagine. Unlike
the French Riviera and many of the Caribbean islands,
it is inexpensive: definitely not suffering from
over development, environmentally clean, but still
provides elegant accommodations for those who prefer
A note for other Americans addicted, as I am, to
ice. The word for ice in the local tongue sounds
like the English word, led. Cafes will give you
small quantities for free. I am still trying to
cultivate a taste for scotch not on the rocks.
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